Hunza Valley, in the far north of Gilgit-Baltistan, is the most visited valley in Pakistan — and for good reason. Encircled by giants such as Rakaposhi (7,788 m), Ultar Sar and Ladyfinger Peak (Bublimotin), the valley combines dramatic scenery with a warm, hospitable culture, centuries-old forts and some of the best roadside food in the mountains. Most travellers base themselves in Karimabad, the valley’s main town, which sits beneath the historic Baltit Fort.

Karimabad and its forts

Start in Karimabad with Baltit Fort, the 700-year-old former palace of the Mir of Hunza, and its older neighbour Altit Fort, which stands over the village of Altit with a royal garden and apricot orchards below. From Karimabad, the viewpoint at Duikar — home to Eagle’s Nest — gives the finest sunset panorama in the valley, taking in Rakaposhi, Diran Peak and the Golden Peak. Allow at least a full day for the forts and the old town bazaar, where you can buy dried apricots, walnuts, Hunza caps and local handicrafts.

Upper Hunza: Gulmit and Passu

Further north, the valley opens towards Gulmit and Passu in Upper Hunza (Gojal). Stop at Attabad Lake, the brilliant turquoise lake formed by the 2010 landslide, for a boat ride or a spin on a jet ski, then continue to the Hussaini Suspension Bridge — not for the faint-hearted — and the cathedral-like Passu Cones. Borith Lake near Gulmit is a quieter stop, and the road beyond Passu leads on to Sost and the Khunjerab Pass on the China border.

Hunza in every season

Hunza is beautiful in every season. Spring (late March to April) brings apricot and cherry blossom; summer offers the full range of treks and fruit, from cherries in June to apricots in July and August; autumn (October) turns the valley gold and russet; and winter is cold and quiet, with snow on the peaks and very few visitors. The Karakoram Highway stays open all year, though heavy snow can briefly close the Khunjerab section in winter.

Practical tips: The drive from Gilgit to Karimabad takes about 2-3 hours on the Karakoram Highway. Book hotels in advance for the blossom and summer seasons, carry cash as ATMs and card machines are limited, dress in layers even in summer, and give yourself at least 3-4 days in the valley — most visitors wish they had stayed longer. SCOM has the most reliable mobile coverage in Hunza.